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When assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. Yet, tucked high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the family totally astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.